An Asian-Canadian's traveling saga & literary tidbit
Life's contentment is not about sitting around in one's familiar place, but rather it is realized from far-flung places away from it. Traveling is my ultimate life's saga.

A day after the Big One! 1 - (TOKYO, Japan - Saturday, March 12, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
"The posted note about "No Vacancy" at the foyer made the dilemma to the situation even more obvious."

Last night was not so good. This morning, we tried to resume everything to normal, at least from between ourselves. For example, we had our breakfast and sat down to plan for the day. But is was difficult. We're still dazed from horrible aftershocks last night coupled with an update from the staff that majority of train is not working, and no one I met from the hotel was encouraged to use train/subway anyway. Now all these printout bulletin posted in the lobby and to each floor and rooms added to my worry that everything is getting more serious: don't use the elevator; in case, of tremor head-out of the hotel; etc. 

Every time I go to the lobby, guests are either on pay phone calling somebody (to their families, I guess) or asking the staff the same questions I asked before, "Is Narita or Haneda fully operational now?, "How about Kesei SkyLiner?" Those locals who forcibly checked-in themselves for the night for an available room last night were checking out now in the lobby too. I could only imagine their relief last night as soon as they're able to secure rooms here at the hotel. When the whole train network went to a complete stop yesterday due to the earthquake, a lot (specially women) had to scramble to find a place to stay or they would face of spending the night at a crowded train station. The posted note about "No Vacancy" at the foyer made the dilemma to the situation even more obvious.

(to be continued...)



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Leaving with sinking hearts for the Japanese 1 - (TOKYO, Japan - Sunday, March 13, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
"As my wife and I look at each other searching for a consensus, another steady jolt befall around us, another depressing wail from one of the survivors of tsunami being flash on TV screen, another distant siren and PA warning announcement (in Japanese) outside the streets of Tokyo. These happenings deride our sense of already heightened fear..."


So far last night was a bit tight sleep for me. Could it be that I consciously exhausted myself during the day so I would go straight to bed? or because I intentionally turned off the TV to mentally block-off these dreadful scenes of the aftermath that linger in my mind longer after I've gone to bed? Whichever it was, I'm glad I mustered four hours of quality sleep until my wife wakes me up with the TV set turned-on this time.

Another series of horrible news update from the coastal region of Sendai. This was followed by breaking news about an explosion from certain nuclear plant. I just recall that yesterday, Japan's US Ambassador was off-putting speculations about a nuclear reactor explosion. Good grief!

Just like yesterday, our plan to head out today to the airport is put on hold because of precarious feelings we have using the train coupled with crowded stations with no service or intermittent one, at best.

"And what about the airport itself? How are they handling the situation? Could it be better that we extend our stay in the hotel for a few more days which, aside from the occasional creaking sound of ceiling and the ominous swaying of curtains every time an aftershock hits - is quite sheltered from all these panic and bustle?" These are series of questions we asked ourselves.

This may be changing.

As my wife and I look at each other searching for a consensus, another steady jolt befall around us, another depressing wail from one of the survivors of tsunami being flash on TV screen, another distant siren and PA warning announcement (in Japanese) outside the streets of Tokyo. These happenings deride our sense of already heightened fear. I almost threw-up.

We're leaving. We're taking whatever risks may come up along the way, but we must leave now. We need to get to the airport today!  (to be continued...)
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Tokyo before the tragedy 3 - (TOKYO, Japan - Thursday, March 10, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
"There was no hint of anything ominous to come. The city was full of life that evening. Toyotas and Hondas join the left-hand traffic flow of Tokyo's busy streets amid the ostensive flashes of traffic lights. A teeming crowd who emerged from Ueno subway station swarms forward in unison to cross the street..."
 (con't...)
Leisurely strolling along Asakusa-dori back to our hotel after our quick supper that was concluded with a brimming cup of green tea may have regained my energy. Or, merely surveying at what I think was a typical scene of Tokyo's urban life has indeed engrossed and occupied me deeply- with cautious-moving step-through frame bikes careening with finesse along the pedestrian lane past through those passersby carrying a composed and collected expression on their faces, if not the calm and cool evening.

There was no hint of anything ominous to come. The city was full of life that evening. Toyotas and Hondas join the left-hand traffic flow of Tokyo's busy streets amid the ostensive flashes of traffic lights. A teeming crowd who emerged from Ueno subway station swarms forward in unison to cross the street at the signal of green light all seemingly gung-ho to carry on their end-of-the-day tasks. The enticing colourful banner of udon and sashimi and the likes swagger at a brief whiff of air signalling passersby a welcome greetings at each restaurant's entrance door. I stood still for a brief moment to appreciate all the activities.

Oblivious to the oncoming group of mothers with their little girl mounted at the front of their bikes, my wife pulled me to the side. Surprisingly enough, all I got in return was a seemingly apologetic gesture of head-bowing from the group; surliness and annoyance untraceable from their faces. It was my ignorance that wronged them! I shook my head out of admiration, and as an afterthought, asked my wife: "Should I be the one to give an acknowledgement to my fault instead?" Their tolerance and patience were beyond belief.


In a moment of epiphany, all the dazzling encounters we had with the locals in a short period of time since we're here have come-up reeling in to my senses, glistening at the rays of light and wriggling with life like a series of fresh catch from the ocean. I wanted to dive-in and explore more of it! Their exceptional characters and good manners that I thought had drifted away from most of human's day-to-day interactions are still here and alive!

The reservations, if not spiteful thoughts, toward their stoic manners and preoccupied  facial expressions have now waned and blotted-out from within me. It won't ever reduce my admiration for the the Japanese and their culture. Japan indeed have human face, as stoic as it may seem - and a broken one at that, post March 11. It is a face that needs help, understanding, compassion, and beyond it all, faith; I will embrace them like a new-found brother.

Later that night, I lay in bed thinking of what the following day may bring to us here in Tokyo.

(NOTE: series continued with title "Caught up in Tokyo". Click Home link at http://arvtar.blogspot.com/ to follow the story...)
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Caught up in Tokyo! 4 (a prelude to earthquake) - TOKYO, Japan - Friday, March 11, 2011

Saturday, March 10, 2012
"There's a collective haunting elements which I couldn't explain at that time while we were exploring the park. Compounded by windless afternoon...a set of multiple stone lanterns stands one after the other; moss crept-up to most of its columnar structure evokes a rather melancholy picture against a backdrop of overcast sky. Statues...are in repose of utter abandonment. In retrospect, they portend a horrific event about to come to Japan that afternoon."
 cont'd...
Stone lanterns
At around two o'clock in the afternoon while leaving Asakusa area, my wife's yet another delightful determination to see Tokyo Tower that day had us veered our feet off to a Metro station nearby to pursue her tower visit. With highlighter pen and a map, the station's staff we asked had then jots of x's, circles, and arrows marked down over other few attractions on the map for us.

The initial feeling of diffidence towards my own limited perception of how to handle a basic Japanese conversation - or inquiry for that matter, afterward, was transformed to a hastened series of bows of comprehension and gratefulness for the attendant's undivided attention of showing us how to get to those places.

Wanting to cover most of them in a single day, we both agreed to proceed with the plan the following day instead, the 12th of March.

Tori

Out of alternatives, the Ueno Park and the nearby Ameyoko night market which are few minutes walk away from Oak Hotel came up to mind. Ah, what better way to spend the rest of the afternoon amongst yet budding cherry trees, Shinto shrines, stone lamps, and colourful fire lanterns!

Several shrines in the park that we began to explore had the usual ambiance of the park itself as a whole, but only more. The silence here was extra-ordinarily deafening. I could almost hear my heartbeat. One of the things I found interestingly enough was its "torii" (gates) painted in deep orange with inscriptions engraved in each single column. Each singular torii canopies the whole length of winding steps down to the shrine house where a set of canine statues caped in red cloth guard the entrance. This shrine house is not as huge and grand like other shrine, but it is as serene. The inviting lanterns hanging by the entrance almost tempted me to enter the shrine, but I was not sure enough if the information placard in Japanese means "no public entrance". I backed-out. Those wooden prayer tablets - each with unique inscriptions written in almost altruistic manner from the petitioners (i.e., a prayer for world peace) by the way, is worth mentioning.
Shrine house

Elsewhere in the park - appreciation-aside from these little brightly-hued paper lanterns festooned and hopping from one cherry tree to another and a lone group of young buskers showcasing their captivating talents, there's a collective haunting elements which I couldn't explain at that time while we were exploring the park. Compounded by windless afternoon, the flowerless cherry trees did not offer any type of visual anticipation for springtime. Nearby, a set of multiple stone lanterns stands one after the other; moss crept-up to most of its columnar structure evokes a rather melancholy picture against a backdrop of overcast sky. Statues of remarkable personalities of the country's historic past are in repose of utter abandonment. Only fewer crowd dotted the park's wide avenue. In retrospect, they portend a horrific event about to come to Japan that afternoon. (to be continued...)


down the shrine house

busker on the street

wooden tablets

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Caught up in Tokyo! 3 - (TOKYO, Japan - Friday, March 11, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
 " Clearly, that was the intention, but...excitement...and foretaste of the action that'd be...will be transformed with paranoia of the aftershocks, fright for what might happens next, an extreme mental anxiety for our safety, and great sympathy for the Japanese people...." 
(con't...)
After our brief stint in Asakusa area, we went the opposite direction going to Ueno Park. Along the way, we dropped by at Lawson's (more like a dollar/loonie store) to grab bottled water. Oddly, this is the only convenience store with a western name I noticed in the vicinity. A 7/11 store with its familiar colour of green and red caught my eye, but only with a strikingly dissimilar-looking logo as compared from ones abroad.

Credit card purchase as opposed to paying with cash at most place of business here in Tokyo - I realised once handing my plastic card to pay for our purchase, is not as common. Surely, they have remained highly entrepreneurial yet tend to be more traditional and seemingly less commercialized as far as doing ordinary businesses here is concern. With this, I admire Japan for effortlessly fusing their own way of doing things while heading forward as being one of the most-advanced industrialised countries in the world! Rightly so, I won't be surprised if they rise from this overwhelming tragedy with utmost resilience than ever before.

Surprised that the store won't accept payment thru a credit card transaction, the staff indicated to me that a 7/11 store across the street has a withdrawal machine. Anticipating the potential predicament in future payments while we're here in Tokyo, we took-out extra cash than we would normally have in our hands. Having the actual paper bill may prove helpful afterward when rummaging through sales at Ameyoko flea market nearby.

Clearly, that was the intention, but my wife's excitement for a new find fashion piece and my foretaste of the action that'd be right in the market (for example, sampling those Japanese street foods and finding a set of dependable running shoes) will be transformed with paranoia of the aftershocks, fright for what might happens next, an extreme mental anxiety for our safety, and great sympathy for the Japanese people. 

In the cool breeze of the afternoon, we head up to the beautiful Ueno Park of Central Tokyo. (to be continued...)
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Tokyo before the tragedy 2 - (TOKYO, Japan - Thursday, March 10, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
"The ensuing trade-ins of "Hai!", crossing of forearms for a "no", and showing of pictured food offerings are acknowledged with my only well-known Japanese  'Arigato(u)'..."

(cont'd...)
As normal as the things could possibly be, after checking-in with the hotel staff and putting away our luggage in our suite, we went out to have our supper.

Though the hotel has its amenities such as kitchen, the impressively arrayed small restaurants - juxtaposed one after the other on sidewalks, each with clear glass display windows showcasing an artfully arranged plate and bowl of sushi, tempura, udon, etc. (almost like bric-a-brac objects in a museum), are overwhelming enough to summon our suppressed gastronomical desire that night. We pick and enter one restaurant further away from our hotel. 

Couple of things that strike us most are the Japanese people politeness and respect of time. They would sense right away if one's a non-local, and would try all their might thru gestures and pictures to convey.

The ensuing trade-ins of "Hai!", crossing of forearms for a "no", and showing of pictured food offerings are acknowledged with my only well-known Japanese word "Arigato(u)" and in return, concludes our order by their polite agreement thru head-bowing. It was indeed an adequate way to ensure we would have the right noodles we anticipated. And we did!

The universal knowledge that Japanese are exceptionally hardworking emerged from the restaurant patrons' way of dealing. No one inside the restaurant tend to hang around after each meal, but gladly would give away their seats once they're done! Customer would place their payment in a cash tray (no literal handing of money) before a cashier accepts it and conversely, for a change. The customer would leave the restaurant right away.

This and other admirable traits of the Japanese people we experienced are some of the many reasons our hearts sink with them at this horrific tragedy. (to be continued...)
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Caught up in Tokyo! 2 - (TOKYO, Japan - Friday, March 11, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
"Our vivid memory of Tokyo - now orphaned by the horror it has suffered from, is now a faint tremor that jolts occasionally to our very sense and understanding of humanity's frailty."

(con't...)
We started today with so much anticipation. Our trip that had been hold-off since last year is finally a reality. As a matter of fact, we pretty much discussed what we want to see in Tokyo since last night after we arrived.

That morning, once we left our room and went down at the foyer, the immensity of selection of sights to visit printed at each brochure are arranged meticulously eye-level along the hallway. Too many, as a matter of fact, we ended up deciding to explore the immediate neighbourhood of Ueno for today to ease ourselves of unnecessary urgency of picking which place has to take precedence on our list. Tomorrow's date is spared for a more grandeur exploration; however, that is not going to happen as fate will unfurl its unthinkable course of events from tomorrow as well as the succeeding few days while we're there.

The Asakusa area south of our hotel is walkable by several minutes from our place. Clearly, the small shops and restaurants with festooned lamp lanterns and Kanji-scripted banners sprouted along sidewalks are delight to our eyes. Our camera keeps capturing every engaging framework of new-found culture and its people's way of life.

Once there, a Richshaw man offered us his service to explore the Sensoji Temple area. We declined because strolling gives us more freedom to examine every corner of the place. At this point, we're like kids reveling excitedly inside an amusement park. When my wife plead me to have a picture taken of her with a group of young girls in their traditional Kimono, she feels ecstatic; one list off of her Japan's bucket list. The Happi coat - a workcloth for Japanese men interests me, but forgot about it as we move along.

The Sensoji Temple itself is grand, and with the spectacular display of reverence the believers and guests alike demonstrate, our curiousity kept our stay longer in order for us to watch and mingle with them. The incense urn, the water fountain shack, the humogous red lantern with an almost-cabalistic inscription hanging by the temple's main hall, and the pristine brook nearby collectively typify the peacefulness of what Japan once was. Our vivid memory of Tokyo - now orphaned by the horror it (the whole country) has suffered from, is now a faint tremor that jolts occasionally to our very sense and understanding of humanity's frailty. (to be continued..)
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Caught up in Tokyo! 1 - (TOKYO, Japan - Friday, March 11, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
We're here since yesterday. Given the remoteness of the earthquake's epicenter to Tokyo, the strength is still unimaginable. The forceful shaking struck while we were in the park. Other tourists that we talked afterward, say they're not as fortunate since they were in the subway underground. It's difficult for me to differentiate, I must have felt the same terror as everyone here in Tokyo had. Totally  terrifying! We're okay. Stayed in our hotel that night, but the more frequent strong aftershocks make us awake in bed almost all night. The sirens and PA public announcement we hear from the street to our suite add to my worry (they're in Japanese but you know the announcement has something to do with the earthquake). All important things (nissin, water, and passports) are bunched together by our door ready to be picked up if in case we need to evacuate and in case we need to hurry down out of the hotel. (to be continued...)
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Tokyo before the tragedy 1 - (TOKYO, Japan - Thursday, March 10, 2011)

Saturday, March 10, 2012
"The would-be experience - among others, was stronger to motivate us to go ahead with the trip and not heed of my friend's honest and far from being insidious pleading that we postpone our trip."

When we left Canada on the 9th, we brought with us a sense of excitement and list of itinerary we intend to do in Tokyo. Seeing first hand the dodging action from flying fish activities in Tsukiji Market and enjoying a sushi breakfast afterward, and checking some of the numerous pagoda architecture at temples were on my top list; my wife, riding up to the Tokyo Tower and visiting Ginza district. The would-be experience - among others, was stronger to motivate us to go ahead with the trip and not heed of my friend's honest and far from being insidious pleading that we postpone our trip.

Sixteen hours from our scheduled trip was when he phoned me about a 7.2 magnitude off Honshu coast.

"Quite strong, but aftershocks from it won't be anymore greater than that! Besides it is far from Tokyo!" in an curt, almost-braggart manner of reply I fired back away to his iPhone.

We went ahead on our packing. There was the feeling of trust in God. Relatively, the idea of outstripping due to 'minor' tremor all the mental and physical preparations we've done prior to this trip wouldn't be fair.

"Everything will be alright!", I said. And so I thought.  

We arrived at Narita Friday afternoon (the 10th). After going thru a maze of seemingly confusing streets grid of Tokyo from Ueno station - walking and heading on shoulder-to-shoulder with well-dressed and facemask-donning Japanese pedestrians, and bicycle riders slithering smoothly amid the pedestrian lanes crowded by locals and tourists, we finally located our hotel. Thanks to a pictorial direction instructions I printed from the hotel's website. (Using landmarks pictures instead of street names and numbers brought back my memory of the City of Venice). 

Everything went alright by the time we reached the hotel. And so tonight, we would discuss about our priority of what to see and explore first by tomorrow morning. It would be the opposite situation by tomorrow. (to be continued...)



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Although the author has no professional writing credential nor an all-embracing traveling experience, it is the inspiration drawn out from lives surrounding him as well as sharing his works with readers that make him enthused about writing; his occasional travel - often spontaneous, inspires him to pen such adventure. He currently lives in western Canada with his wife. ***COPYRIGHT TO ENTRIES RESERVED EXCEPT OTHERWISE INDICATED***
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